Day Two: Tuesday 9 September 2008

A good hearty fry-up at the Kings Arms Hotel was the precursor to a lactic acid inducing climb in the rain and wind from Tan Hill to the off-road track to Sleightholme. This section of singletrack had clearly had a recent savaging at the hands of the storms with sections of it boggy or flooded while other bits resembled a rock garden with loose gravel and drop offs. It all made for an 'interesting' descent to the farmers gate where I skidded to a halt, brake rotors steaming wondering how i'd managed to stay upright!  A big grin was the order of the day before taking a deep breath, release the bike clips and allow the adrenaline to come pouring out.

Continuing on I met up with Pete again in Bowes where we had lunch and I managed a comical complete clothing change in the gents while we waited for the food. The rain, ably assisted by the strong wind, was so penetrating  it had successfully soaked me to the skin and I was starting to feel the cold. Amazing what a plate a warm food and dry clothes can do and in no time the rain had stopped and I was off once again, feeling good, but unknown to me, heading in completely the wrong direction!

On getting back on course via Yarm I changed yet again in the carpark at Great Ayton but also bought a pair of winter leggings from the Pro-Bike shop there in preparation for the crossing over the Moor to Whitby. By that time the weather was beginning to close in again.

I set off on the climb out of great Ayton over the North York Moors with both front and rear lights on due to the poor visibility as the kids were walking home from school. The tarmac immediately began to tilt upwards in a series of challenging climbs as the road twisted and turned to Commondale where the route reaches a very steep section (I din't know it possible to do only 3.4 mph on a bike and still stay upright). 

That climb took me up over a couple of cattle grids onto another section of off-road riding where the weather really closed in, the wind directly off the sea strengthened and the stupidity of venturing out onto the Moors without a compass hit home. I realised that I must have missed a turn somewhere when I hit the tarmac roads again and Pete wasn't around. No phone signal meant I couldn't get guidance from him so I turned into the head wind and hoped it hadn't changed direction.

Luck however was at least partly on my side and I came upon a sign showing Whitby 15 miles (A171), I say partly because the run into the town was accompanied by a howling gale into my face together with stinging horizontal rain!

I arrived on the beach at Whitby with a sense of relief and satisfaction to the welcoming site of union jacks being waved by the reception party assembled there, which included a couple of random but curious Australian tourists who wondered if the ride was a warm up for a real coast to coast Oz style.

The best bit though was yet to come - the fish and chips from the Magpie chippy, probably the best ever.

Mission Accomplished!

Day One: Monday 8th September 2008.

Photo: Me at the start, 7.30am Walney Island near Barrow in Furness. What you can't tell from looking at the photo is that unfortunately, at that stage my brakes had completely failed. This made the first mile or so to the bike shop in Barrow somewhat entertaining!

A full 2 hours later than planned, I set off, navigating my way through Barrow constantly on the look-out for the blue W2W signs that picked out the route. The route at first is a pleasant mix of quiet roads and singletrack. The off-road bits however were badly affected by the recent flooding to the extent that some was well and truly off limits. Despite this I was able to find a way around the worst of it without going too far off plan.

The stand out segments of day one were for me the climb out past Bigland Hall, Grange Over Sands, and Cartmel. This is lovely, chocolate box cover perfect village - home of sticky toffee pudding and National Trust protected. We stopped there to stock up on puddings and also for a welcome coffee.

From that point on the lumps and bumps grew steadily and relentlessly. After crossing the A590 at Town End I  made a small de-tour after being asked to do so by a local farmer struggling with his flock of sheep. Soon afterwards I met up again with Pete for lunch at Sizergh Castle's National Trust Cafe. It was a warm day and I took the opportunity to wash and change as well as stock up on energy drinks before hitting the road again.

On leaving Sizergh the route skirts around Kendal and heads out towards the M6 and the big sky country beyond. The site of the still distant Howgill Fells looked ominous as I swept under the Ribbleheaed like viaduct of Lowgill.

The road from Lowgill to Orton (where we stopped for tea and a scone) was tough, constantly up and down 14%, 16% and 20% short, sharp shocks of climbs followed by the adrenaline rush of fast descents (increased by my inefficient brakes).

The miles continued to roll on by and the afternoon was a spectacular open moor run past Sunbiggin tarn, Soulby and Kirkby Stephen where we arrived at 5.30pm with still the biggest challenge of the ride waiting for me - the climb to the top of Tan Hill.

Pete and I chatted briefly about the fading light and time was against me but decided to press on as the top was only some 10 miles down the road.

Those 10 miles turned out to be the hardest 10 miles I can remember riding. One look at the profile of the hill tells why, 8 miles from bottom to the hotel at the top which at 1732 feet is the highest in England. Gradients of up to 20% for extended periods of time occasionally so steep the front wheel lifts off. However after much gritting of the teeth and groveling in the 'granny ring' a great sense of achievement was waiting at the top. Oh and a nice cold drink!